Waiting for the Chinese

Hi Folks

(Monday 5^th May) There is not a lot going on right now on Everest south side. Everyone is waiting, waiting, waiting for the Chinese to summit on the North side with the Olympic torch.

Until such time, restrictions have been enforced on the South side by the Nepalese army present here at BC and up at Camp II. Officially at least, only persons registered on climbing permits are permitted to stay at BC, and all visitors, trekkers, spouses, support doctors and team leaders are supposed to leave base camp.

Furthermore, all teams are forbidden from being above base camp at all on the 1st & 2nd May anticipating the Chinese would summit by then. That has not happened.

From what we understand, the Chinese team is at Advanced BC on the North side (6,400m) and waiting for a good weather window. The last few days there has been heavy cloud coverage, snowfall and high winds preventing the Chinese from reaching the summit. There is rumor they will summit now around 6th~8th May. No one can make such a predication. It will happen when it happens!

This is a little frustrating for all of us here at BC as by having to stay at lower altitude, we lose valuable acclimatization already gained by having been up to Camp I & II. Furthermore for every day the Chinese torch team do not summit, all teams are getting pushed into a smaller summit/weather window later in the month potentially creating greater congestion on the mountain.

All we can do right now is hope for good weather, and the Chinese to gain favorable conditions to summit asap so all teams can recommence their push up the mountain.

At the moment none of the route above Camp II is fixed. Apparently it will be fixed by a Sherpa team on the 8th and 9th May in readiness for teams to progress to higher camps and towards the summit.

Andy and I arrived back at BC today (Monday May 5) after spending a few nights down the valley in Dingboche at lower altitude. We feel a lot stronger for it and charged with a new energy arriving back at BC.

So, from a quite and idle Everest BC.....bye for now, David.

All bright and cheery......

Wednesday 7th May, 3am

Andy writes:

Dave has just raised me from my sleeping bag at an ungodly hour. He has
decided (and we seem to have acquiesced) that we (Andy, James, Raphael,
Anselm and David) are going to tackle the icefall this morning, and that we
are going to do so early! The conditions look good for an acclimatization
push, but the route above C2 has not yet been fixed, and therefore it is
likely to be a two day dash to C2, and then back to base for tea and medals!

In the dining room, Dave has refused to light the fire and so it remains
cold. James is wondering how to put his harness on, and I am generally
complaining that it is cold and early.

Wish us luck...