Thursday, May 15, 2008

The Final Summit Push

Hi Folks

 

Well we sat around the table until 10pm Tuesday night (13th May) in our BC dining tent discussing all possible summit push options. Technical weather forecasts downloaded from the internet over the past 48 hours have not been showing the most ideal conditions for the coming week, creating a lot of discussion on what we think is the best option to pursue.

 

Contrary to the weather forecasts showing less than ideal summit conditions, actual conditions we are waking to each day reflect perfect summit conditions; this morning we woke to a most sensational Himalayan day – crystal clear white snow peaks shimmering against a cloudless, and windless dark blue sky!

 

Our lead Sirdar, Dewa Sherpa participated in those discussions last night and indicated that fixed lines from C4 to the summit had not yet been put in place, however both Jamie and he will be attending a meeting later this afternoon (Wednesday) to discuss which teams will have final responsibility for fixing lines above C4. It is anticipated these lines will be fixed within the next few days. There are reportedly some 30 expeditions on Everest this year (about 270 registered climbers or thereabouts), and each of the larger expedition team has to contribute either fixed line supplies (ropes, ice screws, stakes etc) for the route, and/or strong and experienced Sherpas for fixing the route.

 

We are all a bit anxious to get moving on the final summit push now that we have rested here at BC for a few days. Given the last few good days of weather, with clear skies and minimal wind, we are going to commence the push for the summit this Friday morning with an anticipated summit day, all going well, around the 21st ~ 22nd of May. As it turns out, 20th May is will be a full moon and generally weather conditions around this date tends to be more favorable, albeit it colder, with clearer skies and the possibility of a moonlight night to guide the way to the summit!

 

It is a 7 day round trip from BC to the summit and back. The tentative schedule we will be targeting for over the coming week is as follows:

 

May 16 BC to C2 (6400m)

May 17 C2 Rest Day

May 18 C2 to C3 (7150m)

May 19 C3 Rest Day

May 20 C3 to C4 (known as the South Col)

May 21 Target Summit Day (full moon)

May 22 Target Summit Day

May 23 C4 to C2

May 24 C2 to BC

 

The tentative summit date of the 21~22nd May is exactly that – it’s tentative! Any variables such as the final dates for fixed lines being put in place above C4, and especially any changes in the weather conditions over the course of the week could change this schedule around somewhat. This for us could mean a bit more sitting around at any one of the higher camps literally on standby waiting for that best window to go for it.

 

Our strategy above C3 up to the South Col and the Summit

 

At this point, the strategy is to spend one extra night at C3 just to better acclimatize, because at this point none of us have slept there. C3 is lower than expected this year at 7,150m, which at this elevation, does not really necessitate oxygen – it is around 7,500m that the pros vs cons come into play of carrying oxygen. At any time, when on oxygen, a climber must carrying two 4L oxygen bottles, which, when full, weigh some 3.7kg each – that’s a total of 7.4kg to carry which feels a heck of a lot heavier when climbing above 7,000m. The alternative is not to be on oxygen (yep - harder work on the lungs), however in doing so, we would not have to carry the extra weight of the bottles (thus less work on the lungs). It will become a personal choice whether or not we choose to be on oxygen from C3 or from higher above C3.

 

We can sense the excitement in our motivated Sherpa team of an approaching summit day. This is their livelihood for which we have them to thank so gratefully! They left BC this morning for C2, and then over the following days will then be making 2 trips from C2 up to C4 to stock the South Col camp.

 

Now the South Col (C4) is a barren, and often extremely windy camp which necessitates that all tents be well anchored down to prevent them from being blown away. The Sherpas will bury all supplies (tents, oxygen, food, fuel and stoves) in bags at C4 in preparation for our arrival on around 20th May.

 

From C3, we will move further up, and then traverse the Lhotse Face through a section called the Yellow Rock Band, and then on up, one grueling step at a time, to the South Col which we might expect to take some 6 to 8 hours. We will arrive at the South Col late afternoon, and then muster what energy we can (everything at this altitude is so bloody tough and slow to do), to make it a priority to boil snow to hydrate and cook some simple foods to replenish our bodies of those depleted calories.

 

We plan to rest at the South Col for about 6-8 hours and then step at around 10pm make our first steps for the summit, some 850m above us. Climbing up along the ridgeline, the route is fixed most of the way. We will pass over the South summit (~8,750m), thereafter climb up the 40m Hillary Step (~8,810m) as the last final crux, and about 1 hour later, all climbing well, and weather remaining on our side, can expect to reach the summit of Everest some 10 hours or so after leaving the South Col.

 

We can expect to make the descent back down to arrive at the South Col by 2pm to rest there for the night on oxygen before then descending down to C2 the following day. Summit day we leave C4 with 2x 4L bottle of oxygen, each of which is expected to last 6~8 hours. A 3rd bottle will be stashed at the South Summit in case additional oxygen is needed on the descent.

 

Typically there is about a 40% success rate of summiting Everest from the south side.

 

During our summit push, Jamie plans to post brief updates via sat phone to this same blog you are now reading www.spiritofeverest.blogspot.com. Also, he hopes to post the same updates to www.project-himalaya.com

 

This is all the blogging I now expect to do until after the summit attempt.

 

As one final note, I would like to personally thank you all following along this blog for the best and safe wishes you have emailed to me here at BC or posted on the website guestbook. Your supporting comments are a motivating force in my efforts, along with those of fellow team members, in attempting to summit Everest and return safely.

 

Bye for now……David

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Chinese Summit, Lhotse Face, & Weather

Hi folks, well after the third progressively higher ascent up the route to C3, most of us have just arrived back in base camp for the final time prior to making the final summit push. Here is a summary of these past few days:

 

(Wednesday May 7) – Gripes to an early start / Move to C1

 

After getting off to a cold, early 3am start today, to which Andy begrudgingly detested, most of us headed back up into the ice fall aiming for C1. Most of the load carrying sherpas also leave around this time, however they would quickly overpass us slower souls! The appeal of moving so early in the morning is the snow under foot is much firmer enabling more efficient and safer movement, and also that the ice fall is at it’s most stable.

 

It had been about 10 days since we were in the ice fall last and in numerous sections the route had clearly changed. In the middle of the ice fall, one section had collapsed across the former route necessitating we scrambled over large fallen ice blocks. Higher up on the ice fall, once section had completely collapsed down upon itself. One crevasse is also noticeably getting wider - upon our first ascent up the ice fall the crevasse necessitated 2 ladders to span it’s breath. This crevasse has now widened to some 4 ladders (you can see plenty of pics now on www.project-himalaya.com), and continues get wider every day. Despite all these changes in the ice fall, we are all a lot more comfortable moving through it albeit we are moving a heck of a lot faster – by capability, but also by choice!

 

This being the 3rd time up the ice fall, I was able to do it in record time of 4 hours which was further encouragement of getting better acclimatized and moving faster. We timed our arrival for sunrise at C1, and the moment the sun rose above Everest to the east, we were immediately struck by the unbearable heat of C1; draining us of energy to do anything really; especially melting snow to rehydrate or cooking food. Nevertheless we stuck it out for the day, lying outside for a couple of hours under sleeping mats to gain protection from the scoldering sun, but at the same time, enjoying the coldness of a slight breeze. James and I promised ourselves, due to these unbearable conditions at C1, to bypass C1 in favor of C2 on all future re-ascents.

 

(Thursday May 8) – Beat the heat / Move to C2 / Chinese Summit

 

After having lied awake for several hours today at C1, I was motivated to get to C2 asap before the heat of the day struck us again.  What was also most appealing about getting an early start was the prospect of getting to C2 for a proper cooked breakfast prepared by our 2nd team cook, Tawa Sherpa at C2 kitchen. James also concurred with the idea of breakfast cooked for us, and was quickly onboard for us to make an early departure at 6am for C2.

 

On the hike up to C2, most striking was the unappealing weather on Everest – a dense, dark lenticular cloud loomed over the summit of Everest and neighboring Lhotse with high, fast winds swirling up any snow on their peaks into streaming clouds.

 

A plane circling the summit of Everest above suggested, that despite these nasty looking weather conditions, that the Chinese Olympic team were making another summit attempt.

 

We hiked for about 2 hours reaching C2 in good time and enjoyed a hot breakfast and few hot drinks, thanks to Tawa Sherpa. Bathing in the milder temperatures of C2, the plane continued to circle above. At 11am news came through over the radio that the Chinese had summited Mount Everest at 910am!

 

Word on the Chinese Olympic team spread quickly up and down to all camps and to all climbing teams. Within a short time all restrictions on our team were immediately lifted and we were now free to move up and down the mountain at free will, and especially above C2 which was previously forbidden. The Nepalese army whom had established a presence at both BC and C2 immediately withdrew.

 

Everest was now open to all climbing teams. It was now open to our team to summit at will.

 

We now have no more excuses!

 

(Friday May 9) – Easy Day

 

Today was, by choice, a relatively easy day with a slow stroll up to the bottom of Lhotse Face with James and Anselm.

These two lads chose to go a little higher onto the Lhotse Face, whilst I was content to have an easier day and return to C2, with intent to go all the way to C3 the following day.

 

(Saturday May 10) – A taste of the Lhotse Face

 

Well with an early breakfast this morning, James and Anselm would return down to BC, whilst Andy, Raphael and I would set out for the Lhotse Face. Setting out at 6am, a clear trail of climbers could be already seen well up the Lhotse Face. As it turns out, this would be both sherpas heading up to establish C3 tents, and also other climbers heading up to acclimatize at the higher elevation.

 

The Lhotse Face perhaps is the most prolonged exposed section of the whole south side route – some 800m of often hard blue ice, with slope angles varying from 45 to 70 degrees. To move safely up and across the Lhotse Face, and along other exposed parts of the route, fixed lines are established in advanced by experienced Sherpa teams. Climbers then clip a safety line attached to their harness, onto these fixed lines as a safety precaution from taking a slip or fall.

 

Compared to yesterday, I got to the start of the Lhotse Face in just 1.5hrs which was another good sign of moving faster. I then turned to the start of the Lhotse Face and after attaching my jumar to the fixed line, started to kick one step up in front of the other – gravity never felt so darn heavy. (The jumar is a device attached to your climbing harness that is slide up the fixed line and then automatically locks onto the line to prevent you from slipping back down the fixed line - handy indeed).

 

In starting up the Lhotse Face, I was immediately overcome by the steepness of the route : the hard blue ice often necessitated kicking the crampons (attached to my boots) into the ice, multiple times, to get a decent hold. The thought of a crampon coming loose became an immediate concern, and prompted me to recheck their attachment to my boots; a lost crampon is not a scenario to contemplate so I am happy to check and recheck every so often!

 

Two fixed lines were available to climb up. The reason for the two lines is one being for those climbers ascending, and one line for those descending. Having two lines is a lot safer than just having one fixed line as it enables climbers, firstly to travel faster in any given direction, and secondly enables climbers to remain clipped in when passing others traveling in the opposite direction.

 

On this relatively steep slope, I would gain altitude quickly; which was a good thing as climbing is all about gaining altitude. However a safety hazard to contend with was the constant showering of ice projectiles falling from above – kicked loose by other climber’s kicking decent steps with their crampons above. Whilst these ice particles are not that large, it is the sheer speed with which they fall from high above that makes them potentially dangerous – wearing a helmet and decent eye protection is an appropriate safety precaution taken along this section of the route.

 

The climb up the Lhotse Face was constant – climbing some 300m up to C3. I made reasonable speed on a number of other climbers above, although the Sherpas will always kick my butt! One noticeable group that I caught up to was one of the larger commercial expeditions. These larger commercial groups are not uncommon on Everest, however one of the problems these larger groups can create for smaller expeditions and independent climbers is that the larger groups often travel together along the fixed lines in a tightly packed group which makes them difficult to pass. This can lead to traffic jams on the fixed lines; especially where only one fixed line is available. Whilst on the Lhotse Face this is manageable given there are two fixed lines, these traffic jams caused by larger groups or slower climbers presents a concern; especially up higher if bad weather is to move in quickly. It is something we are well aware of, and must take into consideration and watch out for on summit day. When seeing these larger commercial groups, the attraction of traveling in a smaller expedition such as that which I am on now; one that allows us to move up and down the mountain at our own pace, either with fellow team members or independently, is of great appeal!

 

I reached C3 at 1030am, moving well, breathing well, and feeling strong. C3 is located half way up the Lhotse Face at 7150m. Our Sherpa team had arrived their just 30 minutes before and had already got to work carving out 3 tent platforms for our team’s future use.

 

A noticeable feature of C3 is that there are multiple lines placed at ground level between and around all tens at C3 – these lines serve as safety clip in points to prevent any climbers from slipping off the Lhotse Face (this occurred to one climber a few years ago who apparently wandered to far from his tent one night to go to the toilet). All our team members would prefer to make maximum use of their “pee bottle” at night in favor of such an excursion!

 

After hanging out at C3 for about 1hr I descended back to C2, this time rappelling down steeper sections on the fixed lines. I was back to C2 just in time for lunch to catch up with the rest of our team. We decided that afternoon we would return to BC tomorrow for the final time before the summit push. Gina arrived at C2 today and would remain here to head for C3 tomorrow.

 

(Sunday May 11) – Return to Base Camp for Final Summit Push

 

Jamie, Raphael, Andy and myself had a hearty breakfast and set out at 730am today for BC. We stopped in at C1 for 1 hour to clean up and check on the tents there.

 

We have returned to BC today with the intent to rest for few days in preparation for the final summit push – it seemed that we have been here for weeks without making much progress, but now all of a sudden we were on the verge of making that final summit push.

 

Our sherpa team remained at C2 tonight and would have a big day tomorrow to move supplies (tents, oxygen, food, stove, and fuel) up to the South Col (Camp 4 at 7.090m).

 

(Monday May 12) – Weather forecast expected to slow final summit push

 

We have woken today to quite a bit of snow. The weather outside is not looking good – both down the valley and higher up on the mountain. Jamie has radioed up to C2 to check the conditions there and our sherpa team reported heavy snowfall which has prevented their progress up to C4 earlier today.

 

Jamie downloaded the latest weather forecast and the outlook is for preciptation through until 16th May or so. This is not necessarily good for the Sherpas establishing C4.

 

A good weather window is now the most critical factor to us making a successful summit attempt, so over the comign days we will be watching closely the latest Everest weather forecasts available.

 

For the actually push to the summit it is a 7 day round trip from base camp. The outlook at the moment is as follows, however this is completely tentative, and is expected to change, pending how the weather works to our favor:

 

May 17 BC to Camp 2 (6400m)

May 18 Sleep 2nd night Camp 2

May 19 Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7100m)

May 20 Sleep 2nd night Camp 3

May 21 Camp 3 to Camp 4 (South Col 7900m on oxygen)

May 22 Camp 4 to Summit to Camp 4

May 23 Camp 4 to Camp 2

May 24 Camp 2 to Base Camp !

 

(Tuesday May 13) – Out for Lunch

 

The weather forecast is not improving. Andy, James and myself decided to head down to Gorek Shep (a 1 hr hike) and have indluged there in a lunch of sizeable proportions – 1x Rara noodle soup with egg, 1x fried vegetable momos, 1x plate of boiled potatos, 1x tuna/cheese pizza, 1x tomato/cheese pizza and 1x Coke in favor of a cold dry Asahi beer (because we consider ourselves a disciplined bunch).  

 

Monday, May 12, 2008

Team Quotes I

Nothing like a few memorable quotes of fellow team members and climbers …………

"Do the radios work down crevasses?" Raphael.

"What do you want me to do, kiss it better?" Dr. James O’Leary when asked to give medical advice.

"We may as well throw you down a crevasse!" Dr. Jamie McGuiness when asked to give medical advice.

“It should take you between 3 and 5 hours”. Jamie talking about how long it should take to get up the ice fall. 1st time up the team averaged about 9 hrs!

"That was the hardest thing I have ever done in my life." Anselm after having climbed the ice fall for the first time.

"If you think the ice fall was hard, wait until you try the Lhotse Face!" Alan Arnette.

"There's camp II. That's only 1/2 hour away!" Andy.

"There's a lot of negative people here. They all need to go back to NY." Anonymous climber at Camp II

"If I take any pictures over a crevasse, I will be taking extra precautions with 2 safety lines." David.

"I think everyone at base camp is going to hate me!" The American removed from base camp by the Nepalese army for conducting a "Free Tibet" protest.

"I never really laughed at Inspector Clouseau until I moved to the USA." Raphael.

"You missed a great party last night." Jamie's opening comment on 1st radio call from BC to Camp I.

"You win the prize for most disgusting meal consumed on the trip so far." David to Andy after Andy consumed 2 serves of dehydrated smoked texas hickory chicken at C1.

“I didn’t think the ice fall would be so steep!” David.

“Do you have any Pringles?” Anselm.

“I asked for a masculine Sherpa, and I got one that spends all his time doing laundry, grooming himself, and drinking from a pink water bottle”. Gina.

“I am a cola connoisseur”. Anselm.

“I’ve lost so much weight I’ve got no hips left to hang my harness off.” David.

“I do not eat potatoes twice a day.” Raphael.

“The Peak Freak team’s shower is much nicer because it has a separate change room.” Raphael known on the team to be rather indulgent in the use of BC shower facilities (as opposed to all other team members!)

“I’m so dumb”. Jamie. “Do you want a 2nd opinion?” Andy.

Camp 3 at 7,150m

Hi Folks

Over the past week we managed to push up to Camp 3 at 7150m on the Lhotse Face for what we hope is the final acclimatization push.

Most of us are now back and resting at base camp (Sunday May 11) for a few days and as final plans are made, and supplies put in place at C3 and C4 by our strong Sherpa team for the for the final summit attempt.

Jamie has managed to iron out a few technical bugs and has now posted numerous team dispatches and a bunch of photos to the website http://www.project-himalaya.com/. These pictures and dispatches can be found under latest news. There are some superb pictures of all team members and sherpas, and of the ice fall and higher camps.

The next day or so I will post an update on the last week in review and outlook for our summit bid.

Bye for now…David

Baking bread on top of the world

Living at Everest Base Camp for some 2 months often desirable food comes up as a discussion point amongst fellow team members.

 

Our team is fortunate enough to have Phurba Sarki Sherpa cooking for us in our base camp kitchen and so far he has turned out for our hungry team healthy portions of pumpkin pie, lemon cake, hot custard, chocalate pudding and cinnamon and apple rolls.

 

For those other teams not so fortunate to have a skilled cook inhouse, there so happens to be a make-shift bakery set up here at Everest Base Camp to satisfy those lusting appetites.

 

http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/em/fr/-/2/hi/south_asia/7387335.stm